Xsgookim Anjok

First Camp

Our journey into the Lax’yip begins… After months of planning and stretching limited funding thanks to the MakeWay Foundation, we load the plane with eager anticipation and head for the hills.

The scenery is spectacular as we reach our lax’yip and we’re treated to the amazing sights of glaciers and icefields clinging to the tops and steep sides of the sga’nist (mountains). We’re in awe and yet ominously aware of the speedy retreat of the last icefields and glaciers in Gitxsan lax’yip (territories).

As we crest the mountains for the first views of our destination in the Xsu Wii Ax Valley (Sustut River) we’re greeted by a thick layer of unexpected fog and are forced to retreat to the Smithers airport to wait for the fogbank to lift in the afternoon.

Finally landed, our Biktrix fat-tires firmly on the ground and trailers loaded to the hilt, we set off for Xsgookim Anjok(first camp) near the confluence of Birdflat Creek and the Xsu Wii Ax.


Early risers explored the immediate surroundings and welcomed the rising sun shrouded in a thin veil of wildfire smoke likely drifting in from the Xsa Gin ‘Taa Yin (Sicintine) fire.

Hearty breakfasts skillfully created by Wii Lax Haa, our camp cook, and the ever present camp chores typically set our days in motion.

Exploration was the name of the game for our xsgookim anjok crew; plentiful cultural heritage, views of majestic alpine peaks, and evidence from our four-legged family checking out the new comers…


Amidst the beauty and splendor we also found evidence of massive ecological damage… BC Rail remnants oozing creosote onto the shores of creeks and into salmon bearing waters, the strong odor of it’s chemicals carrying into the forests surrounding the trestles and rail ties. Evidence of the destruction of cultural heritage and village sites during it’s construction:

For an industry that suggests being conservation focussed we were surprised to find the fishing lodges dumping old fuel, oil and other unknown contaminents scattered about the lax’yip. Instead of disposing of hazardous wastes produced from their pursuits of profits from our resources, they discarded the items off-lease in old train cars, dumped into the trees out of sight of their wealthy clients, and left to rot along the airstrip, including with a trash pile consisting of the evidence of unsecured buildings allowing hungry spring bears to eat the foam out of fridge and freezer doors…

The state of our forests… we’ll simply let the following short video speak for itself.

Massive clearcuts scar most of the valley bottom and appear to be planted back as a pine monoculture plantation, so thick it’s devoid of life…